Butterfly and Pollinator Gardening
Here you will find butterfly and pollinator gardening topics we've compiled throughout the years. From their host plants needed for their caterpillars to survive, to nectar plants that attract them to the garden.
Biodiversity
One of the main goals of butterfly and pollinator gardening is a focus on biodiversity. This is not just giving attention to the insects though. The bacteria in the soil, plant species, and even the occasional squirrel all play an important role in the urban garden. The first step I always point out is to become pesticide free. We aim for a natural balance to be established within the garden and hopefully, with time, the garden itself will become a self sustaining system with few pest problems and be abundant in production.
Above: Masses of flowering plants are more attractive to butterflies and bees than single ornamentals planted in the garden. They find the flowers easier!
Left: The right plants can attract multiple species of butterflies and pollinators, such as the Mourning Cloak (Nymphalis antiopa), Milbert's Tortoiseshell (Aglais milberti), and Monarch (Danaus plexippus).
Host and Nectar Plants
Host Plants
Female butterflies lay their eggs on these plants. After they hatch, their caterpillars will eat the leaves and other parts of the plant. Don't worry, each species has its own host plant(s).
Nectar Plants
Butterflies and other pollinators use nectar plants as a food source as well. These plants provide nectar, a sugary sweet liquid found within flowers, that adult butterflies and bees look for. As they nectar from plants, they also pollinate them by spreading the pollen!
Above: Stinging Nettle (Urtica dioica) is a host plant for many butterflies including the Red Admiral, Milbert's Tortoiseshell, Painted lady, and Comma.
Above: Mexican Sunflower (Tithonia ssp.) attracts butterflies, bees, and hummingbirds with its large, easy-to-find blooms. Grows 4-6ft tall!
Growing Host Plants
Before we decide to grow any host plants, we should think about which species we'd want the garden to appeal to. Most butterfly species have several hosts, feeding on a variety of plants. A good example would be the Painted Lady, which will feed on Hollyhock, Malva, Ribgrass Plantain, Stinging Nettle and even sunflower! Other species, such as the Monarch, will only eat plants in the milkweed family. We can use this information to craft a well balanced garden that not only offers food for adult butterflies, but for their offspring as well. See our Host Plant List here.
Above: Growing fennel, dill, and other plants in the carrot family in correct regions of North America will attract swallowtail butterflies to lay their eggs. Some species that use this family of plants are: The Anise Swallowtail, Black Swallowtail, and Old World Swallowtail.
Growing Nectar Plants
There are a wide variety of flowering plants that will provide nectar to pollinators. This is where you can get creative with garden design. There are hundreds of annuals and perennials that will fit the criteria of being "useful" to a pollinator, so be sure to not limit yourself with the possibilities. Here are some pointers to keep you on the right path:
-
Grow plants in "clumps" and in groups. Insects will find them easier especially if the plants are color coordinated!
-
Clusters of flowers are more attractive than single blooms. Makes flying to your plants more worthwhile as well.
-
Keep the seasons in mind! Make sure your garden is not only providing fresh blooms in early summer, and then dying off by early fall. Perennials that have a short flowering period can be supplemented with beautiful annuals grown right on top of them!
-
See our Nectar Plant List here.
Left: Red Admirals visiting Buddleia, or "Butterfly Bush." Many varieties and colors to choose from, but go for light purples, yellows, and pinks and varieties that are not invasive to your area.
Borage (Borago officinalis)
One of our favourite pollinator plants! Borage is BOTH a nectar and host plant. Honey and Bumblebees love the rich blue flowers that fade to a lovely purple on this plant. Painted Lady caterpillars will also eat the leaves of this herb. Treat it as annual as older plants do not flower well, but it reseeds itself (not weedy) and comes back every year!
YOU CAN EAT THE FLOWERS!
Gardening Tips and Tricks
Deadheading
For many plants in the butterfly garden, deadheading is a very important practice to encourage continuous blooming. Without flowers, many pollinators will head to the next garden in search for a meal. Some things to remember when cutting off spent flowers:
-
Use sharp, clean scissors or shears. It's best to sterilize between different types of plants to avoid fungal or bacterial infections spreading.
-
Snip off as much of the old flower stem as possible. This will often be at the point where the plant branches. Not only does this result in a cleaner look but will also help plants channel the most energy into making new flowers.
-
When the fall season approaches, allow 3-4 weeks before the first frost for your last flowers to finish and set seed. This will allow you to save up for next year.
Above: When milkweed flowers lose their colour, cut the blooms off. Don't let their seed pods begin swelling or the plant will slow down production significantly.
Seed Saving
How to Collect Milkweed Seeds
Wait for milkweed seed pods to swell up in the fall. When they have reached their full size and have started to loose their green colour. You can paperclip the tips of the pods so the seeds don't fly away later. Or simply keep a very close eye on the pods.
Wait for milkweed seed pods to swell up in the fall. When they have reached their full size and have started to loose their green colour. You can paperclip the tips of the pods so the seeds don't fly away later. Or simply keep a very close eye on the pods.
When the pods begin to split (before frost), bring a paper bag to collect however many you want to grow. Each pod can contain up to several hundred seeds! Cut the entire pod off and place into a paper bag. Don't use a plastic bag or your seeds will mold from the moisture.
Bring the paper bag indoors and keep it open. This will allow your seeds to dry (see above). When the pods have completely dried and are crunchy, the seeds are ready. I like to do this next step outside as the fibers can get a little messy. To separate the "fluff," close the bag and shake vigorously. Shake until the seeds have collected at the bottom of the bag. Cut a small hole in the corner and collect your seeds! Store in a cool dry place.